The hunt for authentic Italian food often ends inadequately. In most Italian restaurants aiming for a pasta-loving, pizza-craving audience, one comes across “cheesy” and “bland” plastered all through the menu. Pasta Pomodoro’s approach isn’t exactly “bona fide,” but more of a contemporary – both innovative and traditional – design.

Diners entering the restaurant will find the hostess a little hasty and disorganized, and although there is a considerable wait, most parties are seated at the table of their choice. In no more than a minute, a perky yet attentive waiter or waitress will arrive to familiarize diners with the menu and the “Special of the Day.”

The drinks, three Italian sodas ($1.95 each), turn up within five minutes. The waitress’ recommendation, strawberry Torani proves highly unappealing; however, the peach and raspberry selections are cool and refreshing. The server then presents a complimentary appetizer: garlic and herb foccacia with a side of pesto sauce.

The fairly bright lighting sets the mood of the room: great for dates, with its good romantic vibe, or family outings.

The suspended pendant lamps, imported from Italy, that run across the bar and open kitchen, create a red glow in the room. Black and white photos line the beige-colored walls, giving the room a vintage touch. The smooth jazz playing in the background adds to the surrounding liveliness. The combination succeeds in making the otherwise narrow and cramped room feel friendly.

The entrées are promptly delivered as well. The scrumptious Ravioli di Magro ($8.50) is stuffed with spinach and ricotta and bathed in a rich gorgonzola cream sauce. The Healthy Chicken Fusilli with grilled zucchini ($7.75) is also worth a try, although it lacks zest, probably due to the “low in oil and butter” warning on the menu. The Spaghetti alla Chitarra ($8.50) could use more flavor, and the rather dry homemade meatballs would be helped by a dash of spicy tomato sauce. The dishes are served in good-sized portions which are perfect for sharing.

To conclude the meal, diners can turn to the dessert menu which is comprised of only a few standard choices. Desserts appear shortly; most impressive are the intricate powdered sugar and hot fudge garnishings.

The Soufflé al Cioccolato ($4.95), which consists of warm chocolate cake with melting chocolate inside and whipped cream, produces a heavenly aroma. The Tiramisu ($4.50) and Ricotta Cheesecake ($4.50) are nothing above the ordinary: the Tiramisu is drenched in coffee and the Cheesecake is simply unexciting.

Although the restaurant maintains the air of a pasta chain restaurant, the food and service highly exceed my expectations. Here, luxury and charm meet casual and modern, generating a welcoming feel to all sorts of audiences.

Pasta Pomodoro is located at 445 Emerson St. in downtown Palo Alto. For more information call (650) 325-4400.